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The Bernard Roth Archives

The Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium presents notes of Bernard Roth who always has something to say, particularly about wine and food.

We are happy that Bernard, who has sampled so many wines, has shared his notes with us. We do have, or have had for sale a few of the wines Bernard writes about, and we include a link to our stock page whenever it is a producer we carry (but since the stock page is kept up-to-date and the wines are sold, don't expect any but the newest of wines to show up in our stock!). Mostly though, since we specialize in County of Santa Barbara Wine and Central Coast Wine, we don't carry a lot of the wines Bernard writes about. But we think it is important that you be able to have an idea what they're like in case you are planning to buy some somewhere, or have them in your own collection. Enjoy.

Here are Bernard's notes from August 30, 1998:

Sauvignon Blanc

Here's notes on a few sauvignon blancs tried over the weekend:
 
96 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume En Chailloux--Pale white gold color.  Hay, gravel nose. Good acidic attack, minerally, very Graves-like, flinty. Light flavor profile may be enhanced with some bottle age.  Correct, balanced. Lemony, chalky. Excellent food wine. 90+

96 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Pur Sang--Light straw color. Closed nose initially. As the wine warmed in the glass, it showed a bouquet of overripe pineapple. This is more acidic than En Chailloux. Some honey, butter, lime zest, coconut. Multilayered, complex flavors woven in a light textured fabric. Should gain weight with age (4-6 years). Lovely finish with bitter almond, grapefruit, creme brulee. Long finish. 93+

94 Santa Barbara Winery Sauvignon Blanc Reserve--Very forward bouquet of melon, grass, flowers. Good amount of acidity holds this together. Layers of complexity on the palate enhanced by some oak. Long finish. 90

Pulpitious platitudes:

The Dagueneau wines a great! Great structure and delineation in the En Chailloux. Sweeping complexity on the palate from Pur Sang. Both are mere puppies that should be given proper cellar care before playing too much with them. I'd let the former go another 1-2 years and drink it over the following 3-4 years. The Pur Sang needs 4-6 years and should be great for a decade after. The 96 Pur Sang is not as immediately compelling as  the 95 was upon release, but at full maturity it may be every bit as good.  The 96 En Chailloux is much more approachable than the 95 was last year.  These are both dynamite wines that go great with food.

I haven't had the 96 Silex yet, but based on past performance it is probably quite austere and hard to take this young. I'll let my 95 Silex get its requisite 8-10 years of cellar time. I'd guess the 96 is in the same league and hope someone opens a bottle for inspection to confirm this for me.

The 94 Santa Barbara Reserve SB shows that well-made SB from CA can improve with age. Though most CA SB is good for at best 2 years after release, the  SB Winery SB's since 92 have shown excellent responsivity to cellaring.   

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