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The Bernard Roth Archives

The Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium presents notes of Bernard Roth who always has something to say, particularly about wine and food.

We are happy that Bernard, who has sampled so many wines, has shared his notes with us. We do have, or have had for sale a few of the wines Bernard writes about, and we include a link to our stock page whenever it is a producer we carry (but since the stock page is kept up-to-date and the wines are sold, don't expect any but the newest of wines to show up in our stock!). Mostly though, since we specialize in County of Santa Barbara Wine and Central Coast Wine, we don't carry a lot of the wines Bernard writes about. But we think it is important that you be able to have an idea what they're like in case you are planning to buy some somewhere, or have them in your own collection. Enjoy.

Here are Bernard's notes from February 20, 2002:

Valentine's Day Dinner

We had a belated Valentines Day dinner last night with our friends, the Crosses, at Santa Barbara’s new Restaurant NU, headed by former Wine Cask chef David Cichetti. Our previous visit was somewhat marred by slow service, but this time all cylinders were running in synch. The food was as good as Wine Cask’s ever was (and a few dollars cheaper, per course). The wine friendly policy waves the $15 corkage on one bottle for every bottle you buy off the list.
 
So we started with 2000 Freie Weingärtner Gruüner Veltliner Federspiel. Despite my reservation about the vintage (the 99 was specified on the wine list and was no longer in stock), the wine served its purpose as a decent aperitif and appetizer wine. Light on the GV character, it was just spicy enough to differentiate it from a dry Riesling or a Sancerre. At $25, the price was acceptable given the normal retail price under $10, and it served its purpose to defray a corkage fee. It went very well with the delicious smoked salmon and the butternut squash soup. 87 points.

The first red we brought was 96 Araujo Syrah. I’d read a TN post recently that said it was ready to drink. I found the aromatics needed just a little coaxing, but when they arrived, it was a finely knit mix of black syrah fruit and French oak, with a little toast. The oak was not in the cocoa/vanilla mode. The initial impression on the palate was smooth, elegant, finely crafted and well-balanced. Moderate sweet fruit did not cross the line into confectionary territory. The tannins slowly emerged over the course of the meal, lingering a bit on the finish without becoming chewy or chunky. Not a powerful, overextracted wine like what many wineries are doing with syrah, the Araujo speaks of class and breeding. I would recommend holding it another 2-5 years, and it should hold up well until about 2015 or so. It went very well with the Seared Ahi and the Braised Lamb Shank. 92 points.

We also brought the 91 Herve Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny Les Châtelots 1er Cru. Perfectly mature, velvety bouquet, complex on the palate with secondary aged flavors. The wine was harmonious, balanced, and elegant without appearing insignificant compared to the syrah alongside it. It spoke mainly in the middle register, lacking the higher toned aromatics of grander Burgundies. I actually preferred the mature Burgundy over the young syrah when considered on their own terms, though the syrah was better with my food. The Burgundy was the preferred match to the porcini gnocchi, even though the porcini flavor was too mild. Drink soon. 91 points.

The party of Angelenos at the next table brought a couple of cult favorites with them—Colgin and Bryant, both from the 1998 vintage. When I saw the owner of these showpieces glance our way (an obvious sign of curiosity), I showed him the Araujo label. A quick exchange of nods and I brought the bottle over to their table. They later sent glasses to our table, and we exchanged tastes of syrah for tastes of Colgin. (I sort of regret not having a chance to try the Bryant, but we were departing as they were just opening it.) Anyway, the Colgin was spectacular from the get-go. Voluptuous bouquet of blueberry and chocolate, with some sweet spiciness. The wine was seamless on the palate, as one expects from a Helen Turley cab. Lots of ripe blue fruit, suave oak, and an herbal element that might be more sage and marjoram than the oft-mentioned dill. Not as big and over the top as various Harlans and Bryanst I’ve had in previous vintages, this nonetheless merits a high score. I would drink 98 Colgin over the next 2-4 years. 93-94 points.


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