July 2, 2003

Wine Column

by Bob Senn
 
Fourth of July

A Good Bet for Summer

2001 Firestone Chenin Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley, almost 500 cases produced, $9.95 suggested retail.

Chenin Blanc is one of my favorite white wines. The variety makes dry to medium sweet wines and in France grows in the Loire Valley, specifically from Vouvray. If you buy a French wine that says "Vouvray" on the label you are drinking chenin blanc.

Back in the late 60s to the mid 70's, my introduction to the grape was from the California producer, Charles Krug. The Charles Krug chenin blanc was considered the standard for the variety here in California, producing great quaffing white wine from year to year.

No pun intended, I think chenin blanc died on the vine because some producers made it in a dry style, others in an off-dry style. The consumer therefore became confused. Buying chenin blanc off the shelf, you never quite knew what you were getting, whereas with varieties like sauvignon blanc or chardonnay, the vast majority always made the wine dry.

Because of the consumer's craze for chardonnay, the acreage of noble varieties like chenin blanc and French columbard has decreased significantly. But Firestone here in Santa Barbara County has some planted in its vineyards.

A neighbor from work, had brought by a bottle of the Firestone 2001 chenin. We drank it and I was really blown away by the wine. Although an off-dry style with 0.47 residual sugar, the wine is very crisp, and served chilled, I find it a great summertime quaff, especially for the price! The wine shows hints of floral and appealing stone fruit character, perhaps flavors of fresh peach and nectarine.

I took a bottle to a summer solstice dinner in Santa Ynez. I brown-bagged it to serve it blind so the tasters could try to guess the variety. It's a great aperitif wine. Everybody at the solstice dinner loved it, so I need to get over to the Firestone tasting room to buy a couple of cases.

I had the wine again last week with "to go" chili verde from Charlie's in Los Alamos which I like to serve over couscous, with fresh homegrown green onions. The match with the chenin was terrific, especially when you drink it chilled. It's especially refreshing on these 100degree days like we have been having-maybe even more refreshing than an ice cold Firestone Double Barrel Ale!

Firestone's tasting room is located at 5000 Zaca Station Road. It's open daily from 10a.m. to 5 p.m. (805) 688-3940. By the way, the Firestone Walker tap room is located at 620 McMurray Road in Buellton. Summer hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

The Fourth of July weekend is here. Remember. Wine is food to be consumed with food. Drink moderately, and don't drink and drive. Have a great holiday!
 

Times wine columnist, Bob Senn, lives in the Los Alamos Valley and owns the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium.


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