January 27, 2000
MAGNUM CUM LAUDEThe Millenium has come and gone, with all the hype. No Y2K problems; no aggressive acts of terrorism.
Most celebrations I think were low key get-togethers, with neighbors and friends-I know in my case I celebrated with neighbors who could walk home or with folks who didn't have to drive on public roads. We ended up devouring a six liter bottle of Mumm California sparkling wine along with some Veuve Clicquot and Laurent Perrier champagnes.
The still wine I opened for New Years was a magnum size bottle of the 1993 Alban Vineyards estate grenache, one of these best wines I have ever had in my life-a wine (1995 vintage) I had written up as my pick for "wine of the year" in this column two years ago, and a wine (1996 vintage) I had written up as pick in this column a year ago.
The wine showed its wonderful Chateauneuf-du-Pape pedigree with ample, yet supple, tannins and fresh aromas of strawberries and raspberries in the nose-a wine fashioned in the style of Chateau Rayas.
It has been said that John Alban, the student, has surpassed Jacques Reynaud, the master and winemaker-proprietor of Chateau Rayas and role model and inspiration for the Edna Valley based winemaker.
Grenache is the most widely planted red grape in the world, France, California, Australia, and Spain where it is know as garnacha. It can be a difficult grape to make great wine from. It can be difficult to get good color extraction from. The varietal frequently produces wines of mediocrity.
When you have the opportunity to taste a grenache of the caliber of the Alban, you are tasting the varietal in its full-blown glory.
Three days after New Years, I finished off what was left in the grenache magnum, and to my elation, the wine was still showing beautifully-the tannins were still intact and the fresh berry fruit still dominated the aroma and bouquet. This tells me that anybody who has the wine can expect it to age for a good long time yet-perhaps another ten years or so.
In December of 1989, I surveyed the 1980s in this column with the help of many prominent local winemakers like Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat, Bob Lindquist of Qupe, Rick Longoria, Bruno D'Alfonso of Sanford Winery, Bruce McGuire of Santa Barbara County, Mike Brown of Buttonwood Farm, and Ken Brown of Byron.
Ten years ago, some of these winemakers were the "movers and shakers"- the winemakers who were carving out the path that has put Santa Barbara County at the top of the winemaking pyramid.
And now, ten years later, these winemakers are still at it, in many cases, producing exquisite cutting edge wines which are sought after by serious consumers, aficionados and collectors the world over.
In fact, Jim Clendenen, Au Bon Climat's Mind Behind, has been the cover story of Los Angeles Times Magazine a year ago last November.
In the upcoming "Grapevine," we will explore and rank the Santa Barbara County vintages from 1980 through 1999-twenty years worth for an industry that is just a little over a quarter century old.
Events
Vintners' Festival 2000, the 18th annual, will be held Saturday and Sunday, April 15 and 16, 1-4 p.m. at Firestone meadow near Los Olivos. The festival will include winetasting from more than 50 county wineries, food tasting from great local restaurants and caterers, an art exhibit by 2000 festival poster artist, Dianne Bennett, cooking demonstrations and live music with Rob Rio and the Revolvers.
The event is held outdoors, rain or shine. The cost is $65 per person. For more information, or to get on the Vintners' Association mailing list, call their office at (805) 688-0881, or write the Vintners' Association at P O Box 1558, Santa Ynez CA 93460. No gate sales. Tickets must be purchased in advance. If ticket orders received by January 31 exceed the number of tickets available per day, a computerized randon selection process will be used to fill the orders.
Bon appetit!
Bob Senn writes The Independent's monthly wine column, "Grapevine," lives in the Los Alamos Valley and owns the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium.
