August 27, 2003
HarvestGrowing up in California I always rmember my Dad and his friends saying California-unlike Europe-never has a bad harvest. While not totally true (harkening back to the disaster of 1983), we are blessed, by-and-large, with almost always-perfect conditions during the growing cycle here.
Peter Cargasacchi grows about 30 acres on two sites near Lompoc. Peter told me 2001 and 2002 were two great vintages back to back.
"People told me 2001, my first vintage, would probably be the best vintage I would ever see because it was a perfect growing season," he said, perfect meaning "a long and cool season with an extraordinary hang time." His pinot noir was harvested in early October, 2001.
"Then, he added, "2002 was even better yet!"
Two thousand three is a challenging vintage by comparison, Peter told me. This year we had early bud break, followed by late rains and frost. "It was cold during flowering and set which has wreaked havoc with everybody," he added. "Then early August got unusually warm."
Peter told me, too, he ended up getting an excellent set because he elevated the temperature in the vineyard by discing out the cover crop, thus making the soil a heat sink.
He expects his yields to be about two to 2 1/4 tons per acre, close to what they were for the 2002 harvest.
Jeff Newton, owner of Coastal Vineyard Care Associates, has been planting and managing vineyards in Santa Barbara County for 21 vintages now. His client roster includes such prominent growers as Fiddlestix, Stolpman and Beckmen.
In a nutshell, Jeff told me yields are down, quality is quite good, and in timing, 2003 is an average year (meaning harvest will be neither early nor late-more or less on target.)
He told me 2003 is an unusual year to this point because of the cool and rainy spring, a week of "June gloom" which we typically never see, and counteracted by about three weeks of very warm weather in July.
He told me he expects to be harvesting pinot noir by Labor Day weekend.
I also spoke with Kathy Joseph of Fiddlestix Vineyard across from Sanford & Benedict Vineyard on Santa Rosa Road in the Santa Rita Hills appellation. She also owns Fiddlehead Cellars. Fiddlestix is planted to 100 acres, all different clones of pinot noir.
Yields in her vineyard are on par with 2002, she told me, but both are light because of light set. She's anticipating two tons to the acre "if I'm lucky," she added.
Making a good point, she told me "pounds per plant is really what we should be talking about." It makes more sense to think in these terms because vineyards can very so much in density. Fiddlestix, for example, has about 1800 plants per acre in some blocks.
She figures this harvest will yield two to three pounds per plant. These yields make winemakers "ecstatic," but worry growers who want to get their costs covered.
Kathy told me now that she wears both hats, this vintage is making her schizophrenic.
This weekend is Labor Day weekend. Drink and drive prudently.
To the harvest!
Times wine columnist, Bob Senn, lives in the Los Alamos Valley and owns the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium.
