January 12, 2005
North American Pinot NoirWhen I read what other wine writers write about wine books or cookbooks, I always chuckle. I figure it’s got to be a pretty slow day to have to write about wine books.
Publishers you realize will hate me for this, but most wine books are a waste of time and the waste of a tree. In any good conscience I could never recommend wine books that I see reviewed on pages of newspapers and magazines.
There is the occasional writer who has something worthwhile to say-the likes of M.F.K. Fisher, Michelle Anna Jordon, Robert Parker, Michael Broadbent, Leon Adams, and probably my favorite wine writer of all time, the late Justin Meyer, who also owned Silver Oak Cellar, the celebrated cabernet sauvignon producer in Sonoma County.
For Christmas a good friend gave me a book on pinot noir, and what a book it is! It’s “North American Pinot Noir,” by John Winthrop Haeger, published by the University of California Press, Berkeley, Los Angeles, and London (2004).
In part one, the author takes the reader through “the basics,” covering topics like the Burgundian connection, “where it happens, clones and selections, winegrowing and wine making.
Part two covers key producers. Locals given the spotlight include Au Bon Climat, Brewer-Clifton, Babcock, Byron, Fiddlehead Cellars, Foxen, Lane Tanner, The Ojai Vineyard, Sanford, Talley Vineyards and two producers-Siduri and Testarossa, which produce wines from important local vineyards in both the Santa Rita Hills and the Santa Maria Valley.
The finale, part three, covers “Enjoying Pinot Noir,” advice for consumers.
One important way to judge a book is to peruse the index. A book about sauvignon blanc that didn’t cite and acknowledge Brander, for example, would be suspect. A book on pinot noir has to cover personalities like Jim Clendenen, Tom Dehlinger, the late Michael Bonaccorsi, Greg Brewer, and Chris Whitcraft, and this seminal book covers it all.
Well written and very informative, this book is must reading for any lover of pinot noir! And it includes pinot noir from the Santa Maria Valley, Santa Rita Hills, and our neighbors across the county line, the Edna Valley.
Syrahs for Tsunami Assistance
Jaffurs is hosting a tasting of syrahs for tsunami assistance, a benefit for Direct Relief International. Dozens of local wineries will be participating.
The event takes place Saturday, January 15, noon to 5. $25 per person.
Jaffurs Wine Cellars is located at 819 East Montecito Street in Santa Barbara (off of Milpas Street).
Call (805) 962-7003 for reservations or more information. You can get tickets on line too. www.nexternal.com/jaffurs
Times wine columnist, Bob Senn, lives in the Los Alamos Valley and owns the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium.
