May 19, 2004
A critical time in the grapevine's cycle is May!In last week's column, I wrote, "without excessive cool temperatures, fog and wind, vineyards will have a good "set" in 2004. ('Set' is pollination of the flowers that will ultimately become the fruit.)"
Several days ago, I spoke to Peter Cargasacchi again for an update on the vintage we had talked about for last week's column, and he told me, jokingly, we needed to do a retraction.
He told me the wind is really playing havoc with the vines right now. Those really aren't the words he used, but in this era when the FCC is coming down on broadcast licensees for using what I consider benign words on the radio like "boob" and "crap," "Playing havoc" gets the point across just fine.
Specifically varieties that are blooming right now like pinot noir, syrah and chardonnay are being most affected by the winds, Peter said.
Looking on the positive side, "wind havoc" could be good, if it lightens yields a bit, by "loosening the clusters giving more sunlight penetration to the fruit," he added.
Little fog, near perfect temperatures are the conditions I think we all like the best, especially this time of year, and especially if you're in the business of growing grapes. The wind is the problematic factor this vintage.
Coming out of "sleep" or dormancy, bloom is the second stage in the annual life cycle of the vine. Bud break, stage one, is "awakening." Bloom and "set"-usually this time of year-is when pollination occurs and the fruit is formed. Verasion, stage three, occurs in late summer. With verasion, the hard green berry softens, developing color and fruit sugars begin to form in the berry. Stage four is harvest and it can occur anytime from mid August to November. Like all life in the Plant and Animal Kingdom, vines need their sleep time too. Bears hibernate; vines go dormant.
- Speaking of Peter Cargasacchi, he got good news last week. He got label approval from the Feds on his Point Concepcion label. He will soon have three wines available-a pinot noir from his Jalama Vineyard, a blend of Santa Barbara County and Paso Robles syrah, and a Paso Robles syrah-cabernet sauvignon blend.
- Last week, I received at work a bottle of wine and a letter from Paul and Susan Righetti. The front label: 2002 Dusi Vineyard Zinfandel with the Far Western Tavern logo. The back label reads, "The Far Western Tavern purchased one and a half tons of Zinfandel grapes in 2002 from Benito Dusi Vineyard, one of the most prized Zinfandel Vineyards on the Central Coast. The vineyard is dry farmed and untrellised. The grapes were harvested at 25.5 degrees brix. The result is a well-balanced, rich jammy Zinfandel with a nice depth and dry finish."
I spoke to Paul Righetti last Friday. He told be 90 cases were produced and the wine sells for $24. Along with their beans and Bull's Eye steak, this zin is just another reason to visit the Far Western over in Guadalupe!The wine's absolutely delicious! I drank it over two evenings last week-with home made spaghetti one night, and with neighbors the other night with fried chicken, corn on the cob, and mashed potatoes and gravy. If you are a regular reader of this column you know I applaud restaurateurs like Paul and Susan Righetti for taking an already good wine list one step beyond and doing their own label. This shows a real commitment to the gustatory and culinary experience.
Wine lover and Santa Maria Times Wine columnist, Bob Senn, lives in the bucolic Los Alamos Valley and owns the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium.
