
Published, October 14, 1999*
The Santa Barbara Independent's Definitive Guide to Wine Tasting in Santa Barbara Countyby Bob Senn |
| Take the Tour
. . .
Where to Eat . . . Where to Stay . . . Where to Picnic . . . Touring -- Leave the Driving to the Professionals . . . |
That's not bad for an industry--some might call it a passion--that virtually didn't exist here a mere quarter of a century ago except perhaps to a few pioneering visionaries like Richard Sanford, Pierre Lafond, founder of Santa Barbara Winery, Brooks Firestone and Bill Mosby, and to grape growers like Joe Carrari of Los Alamos, the Miller Family of Santa Barbara, fourth generation California farmers who own three vineyards on the Central Coast including Bien Nacido Vineyard east of Santa Maria, and Dale Hampton of Hampton Farming in Santa Maria, the largest vineyard management company in the county-and later on-in the early 80s, by such impassioned winemakers as Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat, Bob Lindquist of Qupé, Lane Tanner of Lane Tanner Winery, former wine merchant and wineshow radio host Chris Whitcraft, and restaurateur - winemaker Frank Ostini, owner-chef and winemaker for the world - famous Buellton Hitching Post restaurant.
These vineyards (along with the wineries) are shown on two stunning full-color poster size topographical maps of Santa Barbara County's two appellations - the Santa Maria Valley, and the Santa Ynez Valley, plus the bucolic Los Alamos Valley (not yet an officially recognized viticultural area by the Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms), and the Santa Rita Hills in the western end of the Santa Ynez Valley (which has recently applied for official appellation status from the BATF.) These new topo maps will serve as the basis for The Santa Barbara Independent's 1999 Wine Touring edition. The maps, by the way, cost $10 each, plus tax and shipping. To order maps, contact the Santa Barbara County Vintners' Association at (805) 688-0881 or write to SBCVA, PO Box 1558, Santa Ynez CA 93460. By way of overview, of the 134 vineyards in the county,
The majority of the vineyards in Santa Barbara County are planted in chardonnay and pinot noir, but dozens of other varietals, including syrah, sauvignon blanc and even riesling are also grown in the many different microclimates in the county. Santa Barbara County is recognized for producing the consummate burgundian varietals-chardonnay and pinot noir because we are in one of the coolest grape growing regions of California. We are also receiving important recognition for Rhone varietals like syrah. Vineyard consultant, Jeff Newton, recently told a group at a seminar for prospective vineyard planters hosted by the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium, that syrah can perform extremely well in the coolest climes of the county as well as the warmer microclimates as you go further inland and away from the coast, to wit, the Qupé Bien Nacido Reserve and Bien Nacido Hillside Estate syrahs from the coolest region 1 to the stunning syrah blends from the Ibarra-Young Vineyard near Los Olivos and Santa Ynez, a much warmer, high region 2-mid region 3 microclimate. "For years, wine writers, distributors and wine enthusiasts have been asking for maps locating the vineyards," said SBCVA executive director, Pam Maines. "As Santa Barbara County has gained a reputation for producing fine wines, people have wanted to see where the grapes are being grown and where specific vineyards are situated." The new topo maps illustrate beautifully the unique transverse (east-west running) mountain ranges and valleys which allow the flow of fog and cooling breezes inward from the coast and create the many microclimates in which a wide variety of wine grapes are able to be grown. |
So you thought
Santa Barbara was just about beaches, palm trees and surf. Just over the
Santa Ynez Mountains is the spectacular Santa Barbara Wine Country, with
134 vineyards covering some 18,000 acres of rolling oak-studded hill side
and almost 50 wineries, in a terrain many might say is quintessential California.
Touring wine country can be a fun one day escape for locals and tourists alike. For out of town folk seriously interested in wine, a two to three day trip to the Santa Barbara wine country might just be the ticket. Places to stay in wine country cover all budgets and tastes from Day's Inn, the Econolodge and Motel 6 in Buellton, to the Ballard Inn, Fess Parker's Wine Country Inn in Los Olivos, the splendourous Alisal Guest Ranch near Solvang, and the Santa Maria Inn. Then too, there's a cornucopia of great eating places, from great coffee shop- burger joints like the Longhorn in Santa Ynez and Ellen's in Buellton, to just good down to earth places like Ghostriders and Charlie's in Los Alamos, to world class eateries like Grappolo in Santa Ynez, Brothers in Solvang, Chef Rick's Ultimately Fine Foods in Santa Maria, and of course the Hitching Post restaurants, the original in Casmalia, and the Hitching Post II in Buellton. Overnight stays to our wine country should always include a lot of warm clothing, even in the summer. Year round, night time lows will hit the upper 40s, and of course, in the wintertime, drop into the 30s. Wind-chill in many areas can be a factor. Fancy clothes are usually not required. Hawaiian shirts, Wranglers and Resistols are quite the mode and are usually totally appropriate. Some Tips to Enhance Your Wine Tasting Time Bring money along. Many tasting rooms are now charging for tasting, and it might be anywhere from a couple of dollars to $5 or $6. Empty isn't bad! Many people feel intimidated by wine tasting. Instead of shying away from empty parking lots at wineries, by all means stop. It's an opportunity! To have one-on-one contact with the person in the tasting room is a real chance to learn more about wine. Gifts. A number of wineries offer gifts as well as wine-cork screws, logo glasses, tee shirts and the like. Eat First. Always start your day off with a good, hearty breakfast or a substantial lunch. It's important to have enough food to soak up the wine. Take it Easy. Compared to places like Napa, our wineries are spread far apart. Don't try to cover too much in a given day. A comfortable number to visit would be three to five on any given day. Try to taste with focus. Concentrate on one varietal, perhaps like pinot noir or syrah, or viognier in any given day. Taste early. Your palate is at its freshest point in the midday. Tasting rooms can get noisy and even boisterous toward the end of the day, and can be quite unpleasant to visit, especially if you are a serious buyer or taster. Don't be afraid to spit. Good tasting rooms allow it and provide spit buckets. The idea in wine tasting isn't to get smashed! This guide will take you on a driving tour to the outback of Santa Barbara County. You will also find a listing of all wineries, hours and related information on our complete Santa Barbara County/Central Coast Wineries Listing Page. STARTING IN THE CITY OF SANTA BARBARA Santa Barbara Winery. Santa Barbara Winery is the oldest winery in the county, founded in 1962 by Pierre Lafond. Their great tasting room is just two blocks up from the beach at 202 Anacapa Street. Open 10-5 daily. (805) 963-3633; www.sbwinery.com. Take the Garden Street exit off Highway 101, go south to Yanonoli Street and turn right. Meridian Vineyards Wine Market. Meridian, which has a terrific tasting room east of Paso Robles on Highway 46 (where the winery is actually located) has recently opened their Santa Barbara tasting room at 505 Paseo Nuevo downtown Santa Barbara. The wine market is open Monday-Friday 10-9, Saturday 10-8, and Sunday 11-7. (805) 963-2902. GETTING INTO THE WINE COUNTRY (VIA SAN MARCOS PASS) From Santa Barbara, take Highway 154 over San Marcos Pass. Note that Highway 154 is a daylight headlight road because the highway, statistically, has a lot of fatalities on it -- way more than average. Although Caltrans has made great strides at improving the road in recent years, the main problem remains the same -- impatient drivers! You will be cited for driving the highway without your headlights on. This is a beautiful drive which rises up over the hills behind the City of Santa Barbara and down past Lake Cachuma. On occasion there are road closures on this route, so we advise that you check our maps page where you will find a link to California Department of Transportation road information. (You can avoid San Marcos Pass by continuing north on Highway 101 to Highway 246 in Buellton, then head east on Highway 246, through Solvang, and on to our first stop at Gainey.) THE SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - GOING WEST ON HIGHWAY 246 The Gainey Vineyard is the closest winery to Santa Barbara. If you take Highway 246 off of Highway 154, you'll find Gainey just a short jaunt down on the left at 3950 East Highway 246. The tasting room is open daily from 10-5. Picnic area. (805) 688-0558. If you continue west on Highway 246 toward Solvang, you will find two more wineries on your way. Turning left on Refugio Road, you'll come upon Lincourt and Sunstone. LinCourt Vineyards (formerly Santa Ynez Winery) at 343 North Refugio Road is open daily from 10-5. Picnic area. (805) 688-8381. Sunstone Vineyards & Winery is located a bit further down at 125 North Refugio Road. The winery is open daily from 10-4. Picnic area. (805) 688-9463. On this part of your journey, the estate vineyards at Gainey are called the Gainey Home Ranch. As you travel down Refugio Road, just before Lincourt is a vineyard with a Napa-like architectural ediface called Harmon Family Vineyards. The vineyards at Lincourt are the historic Viña de Santa Ynez planted thirty years ago by neighbors Boyd Bettencourt and Giff Davidge. This was the first vineyard planted in the Santa Ynez Valley since Prohibition was repealed. Vineyard land west of Refugio includes neighboring Mesa Verde, La Presa owned by Eric Caldwell, a former partner in the old Santa Ynez Winery, and Valley View, just east of Solvang. In and around Santa Ynez as you continue west on Highway 246 toward Solvang, you will pass three more tiny vineyards of note. JK Vineyard, Morehouse and Rothberg. The fabled syrah out of Joe Kalina's JK Vineyard has been made into great wine by both Lane Tanner and by John Kerr. Syrah from Morehouse and mostly viognier with two rows of mourvèdre from Rothberg has been produced into highly sought after wine by Foxen.
And while you are in Buellton, be sure to stop by the new Firestone Walker Brewing Co. tasting room at 620 McMurray Road in Buellton. Normal hours are Thursday-Sunday 11-8. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday, but open Mondays in the fall for Monday Night Football. (805) 686-1557. A must-stop while you are in Buellton is the Buellton Hitching Post at 406 East Highway 246. Besides one of the great barbecue restaurants in the world, the restaurant also serves as the tasting room for Hitching Post Wines produced since 1984 by Gray Hartley and Frank Ostini. 4-9:30 daily. (805) 688-0676. www.hitchingpost2.com The Arthur Earl tasting room is located at 2921 Grand Avenue in Los Olivos. (805) 693-1771. Los Olivos Vintners is located at 2923 Grand Avenue in Los Olivos. (805) 688-9665. Both tasting rooms are open 11-6 daily. Daniel Gehrs tasting room is located at 443 Second Street, across from Theaterfest in Solvang. Open daily from 11-6. (805) 688-0694. Since the original print version of this guide appeared, Daniel and Robin Gehrs have told us that they plan on moving their tastring room from Solvang to the Heather Cottage gift shop at 2939 Grand Avenue in Los Olivos sometime in the early months of 2000. |
Buellton is "decision time." From here there are two ways to Lompoc and more vineyards and wineries.Mosby Winery is located at 9496 Santa Rosa Road where the Avenue of the Flags becomes Santa Rosa Road. Open 10-4 Monday-Friday and 10-5 Saturday and Sunday. Picnic area. (805) 688-2415. Sanford Winery is located at Rancho El Jabali vineyard at 7250 Santa Rosa Road. Open daily 11-4. Lovely picnic area. (805) 688-3300. If you continue west on Santa Rosa to the town of Lompoc, (with its single winery, Richard Longoria, which, as of this writing, is not open to the public), you will pass a number of new and old vineyard properties past Jabali including the new Gainey Santa Rosa Hills, Lafond Vineyard which Pierre Lafond of Santa Barbara Winery started planting in 1972, Hilltop, the legendary Sanford & Benedict Vineyard which Richard Sanford planted in 1971, and the Santa Rita Vineyard which will be the future home of Sanford Winery. On the right side of the road, across from Sanford & Benedict is the Fiddlehead/Beringer Vineyard spearheaded by Fiddlehead Cellars winemaker-proprietor, Kathy Joseph. Vineyards on and around the Santa Ynez River in the Santa Rita Hills east of Lompoc include Davids Pinot, Mt. Carmel, Lavie, Blind Faith, Sweeney Canyon and Cargasacchi. (As an aside, the Longoria Tasting Room is located in Los Olivos at 2935 Grand Avenue. 11-4:30 Friday-Sunday, 12-4:30 Monday, Wednesday and Thursday. Closed Tuesday. Garden patio. (805) 688-0305 and the Fiddlehead Cellars Tasting Room is located at 2531 Grand Avenue, a half-mile south of Los Olivos. 11-6 daily. (805) 688-4409. www.sbwines.com.)
Babcock Vineyards is located at 5175 Highway 246. Open 10:30-4 Friday-Sunday and by appointment. Picnic area. (805) 736-1455. The new vintners' topographical map of the Santa Ynez Valley shows two new wineries just before Babcock which are not yet open to the public: Melville and Brewer-Clifton. Neither winery has tasting facilities at the present time. The Brewer-Clifton phone number is (805) 452-5609. Greg Brewer was the assistent winemaker under Bruce McGuire at Santa Barbara Winery for several years. Going east to west on Highway 246, the vineyards are Mosby 246, Foley/Lincourt on the right, Morovino on the left, Melville, Babcock (at the winery), Huber on the left, Clos Pepe on the right and Fess Parker West on the left as you approach Lompoc. |
| THE SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - STAYING
ON HIGHWAY 154
Brander is located at Highway 154 and Roblar. Open daily 10-5. Picnic area. (805) 688-2455. www.brander.com. Domaine Santa Barbara wines are tasted at Brander 10-5 daily. Picnic area. (805) 884-1089. Bridlewood Winery is located at 3555 Roblar Avenue. Open 10-5 daily. (805) 688-9000. The Vineyards at Royal Oaks at 3010 Roblar Avenue is a new producer and winery member of the Santa Barbara County Vintners' Association and not yet open to the public. (805) 688-6264. Vineyard properties close to Brander include Joughin, and Great Oaks. Very small vineyards beyond Bridlewood include Vandale Vineyards, Scott Vineyard, Calzada Ridge and White Gate. Vandale's small amount of sangiovese has been produced for the vineyard by Bruno D'Alfonso, winemaker at Sanford Winery. Vandale Wine is available for tasting at 2531 Grand Avenue south of Los Olivos. (805) 688-4409. www.sbwines.com.
Off of Roblar is the famous Ibarra-Young Vineyard, owned by pioneer grower, Charlotte Young. This vineyard provides the marsanne, mourvèdre, warmer region syrah and viognier for Qupe. In the town of Los Olivos you will find the greatest concentration of tasting rooms in Santa Barbara County. You'll find the two independent tasting rooms, the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium set back in a field a half-mile south of town at 2531 Grand Avenue, and the Los Olivos Tasting Room downtown at 2905 Grand Avenue. These independent tasting rooms are open daily from 11-6.
The Emporium also offers for sale (but not for tasting) some of the rare and exquisite spirits produced in California, Mexico and Kentucky. Germain-Robin hand distilled alambic brandies from Mendocino County, brandies that many believe excel the best from Cognac, the incomparable hand distilled gin and rye spirits produced by Anchor Distilling Company of San Francisco (the people who also brew San Francisco's famous Anchor Steam Beer), St George Spirits eaux de vies, Mosby and Bonny Doon, plus select small batch bourbons from distillers like Van Winkle and A.H. Hirsch, and handmade tequilas from the other California a.k.a Mexico. The Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium is open daily from 11-6. (805) 688-4409. www.sbwines.com. Most of the wines poured at the Emporium are from wineries which do not have their own tasting rooms. What's open on the bar can be sampled; the entire inventory lists over 100 wines and spirits. Here's some of what you might find:
The wines of Bonny Doon Vineyard are also sold and tasted at the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium. |
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The other independent tasting room, the Los Olivos Tasting Room was started back in 1988. Bob Senn, owner of the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium, was the consultant to the owner who developed the concept and established the tasting room downtown. The tasting room is located at 2905 Grand Avenue in Los Olivos. Open daily from 11-6 with last tasting at 5:30. (805) 688-7406. In downtown Los Olivos you'll find four winery tasting rooms-- Andrew Murray, 2901A Grand Avenue. Open 11-6 daily; closed Tuesday. (805) 686-9604. Arthur Earl, 2921 Grand Avenue. Open 11-6 daily. (805) 693-1771. Los Olivos Vintners, 2923 Grand Avenue. Open 11-6 daily. (805) 688-9665 Richard Longoria Wines, 2935 Grand Avenue. Open 11-4:30 Friday-Sunday; 12-4:30 Monday, Wednesday and Thursday; closed Tuesday. (805) 688-0305.
Blackjack Ranch Vineyards & Winery is located at 2205 Alamo Pintado Avenue. Proprietor Roger Wisted tells us he will open his tasting room on New Year's Eve of 1999. (805) 686-9922; bjranchrog@aol.com. Foley Estates Vineyard & Winery (formerly Curtis and originally Carey Cellars) is located at 1711 Alamo Pintado Road. 10-5 daily. Picnic area, lawn and veranda. (805) 688-8554. Rideau Vineyard is located in a precious and graciously restored old adobe at 1562 Alamo Pintado Road. 11-4:30 Friday through Sunday, or by appointment. Picnic area. (805) 688-0717. Buttonwood Farm Winery & Vineyard is located at 1500 Alamo Pintado Road. 11-5 daily. (805) 688-3032. Buttonwood's winemaker, Mike Brown, also produces stunning wines under his own label, Kalyra, the aboriginal word for "wild and pleasant place." The Kalyra dessert wines are available at Buttonwood's tasting room.
Continue on to Rusack Vineyards, 1819 Ballard Canyon Road (11-5 daily; winter hours may vary. 805 688-1278). Rusack is the location of the old Ballard Canyon Winery established back in the late 70s by Gene and Rosalie Hallock. Gene Hallock had a successful dental practice in Santa Barbara.
FROM LOS OLIVOS -- OUT FOXEN CANYON ROAD Wrapping up our meandering journey through the Santa Ynez Valley, as you go up Foxen Canyon Road from Los Olivos, you will pass five wineries and about 12 vineyards. Curtis Winery is located at 5249 Foxen Canyon Road. This designer building was originally the private art gallery for former Santa Ynez Valley resident, TV producer Douglas Cramer who also was one of the original partners in Byron Vineyard & Winery with Byron "Ken" Brown. 10-5 daily. Picnic area. (805) 686-8999. From Curtis, going left down Zaca Station Road takes you to the Firestone Vineyard at 5017 Zaca Station Road. 10-5 daily. Picnic area. (805) 688-3940. Going up Foxen Canyon Road from Curtis, you will pass three more winery properties in the Santa Ynez Valley appellation: Fess Parker Winery & Vineyard, Andrew Murray Vineyards and Zaca Mesa Winery. Fess Parker is located on the right at 6200 Foxen Canyon Road. 10-5 daily. (805) 688-1545. Further on up Foxen Canyon on the left at 6701 is Andrew Murray Vineyards winery which is open only by appointment. The tasting room is located in Los Olivos. (805) 686-9604. Winding on up Foxen Canyon you will find Zaca Mesa Winery on the left at 6905 Foxen Canyon Road. 10-4 daily. Lovely picnic area. (805) 688-9339; zacamesawine@utech.net. Up Foxen Canyon Road, 12 vineyards include three properties owned by Firestone, Casa Blanca, two Rodney's Vineyards owned by Fess Parker, Andrew Murray estate, Savanna and four vineyards owned by Zaca Mesa: Misty Ridge, Chapel, Fox Run as you approach the winery, and Windmill. Continuing on Foxen Canyon takes you into the "Santa Maria Appellation," which you can find by moving down this page to The Santa Maria Valley. FROM LOS OLIVOS-NORTH ON U.S. 101 From the town of Los Olivos, a drive up Highway 101 and Highway 135 from Los Alamos will take you into the Los Alamos Valley. Taking US 101 up to Clark Avenue just south of Santa Maria or continuing up Foxen Canyon Road past Zaca Mesa Winery and Alisos Canyon Road (which will take you back to Los Alamos and Highway 101) will take you into the Santa Maria Valley appellation. Los Alamos Valley In the Los Alamos Valley, 23 vineyards and just one winery at the present time cover about 8,000 acres. Most of the new vineyard development in Santa Barbara County is taking place north of the town of Los Alamos, most of which is on Highway 101 north as you drive toward Santa Maria. Taking 101 north from Highway 154, two vineyards can be seen to the right: Los Alamos Hills and Rancho Los Alamos, which is the beautifully manicured vineyard property just east of Alisos Canyon Road. A drive out Alisos Canyon Road takes you past two highly regarded vineyard properties, Thompson Vineyard on the left, and Alisos Vineyards on the right. Bedford Thompson Winery & Vineyard is located at 9303 Alisos Canyon Road. Daily 10-5. Great picnic area. (805) 344-2107. A few miles past Bedford Thompson was the old winery facility where Tony Austin, founder of Austin Cellars made his wine. If you stay on Alisos Canyon Road, it will tee into Foxen Canyon Road; turning right will take you back into the Santa Ynez Valley and turning left will take you up into the Santa Maria Valley. As you continue north on 101 between Alisos Canyon Road and Los Alamos, you will note four vineyards, three on your right and one on your left, Rancho Santa Felicia. Three of the vineyards were planted by veteran grapegrower Joe Carrari. The middle vineyard on the right is owned by Royce Lewellen, a judge in Santa Maria and by Louis Lucas, a pioneer grower who planted, owned and managed the famous Tepusquet Vineyard, a property now owned by Kendall-Jackson.
Continuing this scenic drive, you'll find Sainz, Lahr, Los Alamos, Wind Willow and Careaga Canyon on the right side, and Geoffrey Cellars on the left. The old Los Alamos vineyard was the original home of Au Bon Climat, started in 1982 by visionary Jim Clendenen. As Highway 135 merges into Highway 1, on the right side of the
road you will see the 2,700 acre White Hills Vineyard,
owned by Beringer Wine Estates, also a major source for Meridian chardonnay.
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Santa Maria Valley
The Santa Maria Valley appellation runs east of Highway 101 through the city of Santa Maria. The appellation's 6,000 acres are home to 22 vineyards and 14 winery operations including those in the city limits of Santa Maria. There are three ways to reach this destination from the south: Highway 101, Highway 135 and Foxen Canyon Road.
Once you are past Zaca Mesa Winery and the Alisos Canyon intersection, you will come upon eight more premium wineries: Foxen Vineyard is located on the right at 7200 Foxen Canyon Road. 12-4 Friday through Monday. (805) 937-4251. Rancho Sisquoc Winery is located at 6600 Foxen Canyon Road. 10-4 daily. Great picnic area. (805) 934-4332. Byron Vineyard & Winery and io (the new Rhone varietal operation) are located at 5230 Tepusquet Road. 10-4 daily (November-March) and 10-5 daily (April-October). Great picnic area. (805) 937-7288. Cambria Winery & Vineyard is located at 5475 Chardonnay Lane off of Santa Maria Mesa Road. 10-5 Saturday and Sunday. (805) 937-8091. This winery operation is also the location where Kristone sparkling wines are produced. Cottonwood Canyon Vineyard & Winery is located where Orcutt-Garey road tees into Dominion Road at 3940 Dominion. Au Bon Climat, Qupé and Hitching Post wines are all produced under one roof in a large facility east of Santa Maria in Bien Nacido Vineyard. The winery is not open to the public. (Au Bon Climat wines can be tasted at 2905 Grand Avenue in Los Olivos. Qupé and Hitching Post wines can be tasted at 2531 Grand Avenue a half mile south of Los Olivos and at 2905 Grand Avenue. Hitching Post wines can also be tasted at the Hitching Post restaurant, 406 East Highway 246 in Buellton. 4-9:30 daily. (805) 688-0676.) Other important wines produced out at the Au Bon Climat/Qupé co-op include: Cold Heaven showcasing viognier and pinot noir from cold grapegrowing regions like the Santa Maria Valley, the western stretches of the Santa Ynez Valley and Edna Valley to the north made by Morgan Clendenen; Costa de Oro made by Gary Burk from Gold Coast Vineyards fruit; Makor made by Jim Adelman; Ici/La-Bas made from Oregon pinot noir by Jim Clendenen; Il Podere Dell'Olivos made from mostly Italian varietals by Jim Clendenen; Vita Nova, a winemaking effort of Jim Clendenen focussing mostly on Bordeaux varietals. Look for a new winery operation called Tantara to open out on the Bien Nacido Vineyard property. Currently released wines under the label were produced at Laetitia near Arroyo Grande. In the city of Santa Maria there are two bonded winery facilities. Chimère is located at 217 North Russell. Tasting by appointment only at the winery. (805) 922-9097. The wines are available for tasting at 2531 Grand Avenue, south of Los Olivos. 11-6 daily. (805) 688-4409; www.sbwines.com. As of this writing, Chimere plans to open its own tasting room in the first quarter of 2000 in front of the Alamo Motel at 425 Bell Street in Los Alamos. Central Coast Wine Services is located at 2717 Aviation Way in Santa Maria. This winemaking facility is owned by the Miller Family who also own Bien Nacido Vineyard, French Camp Vineyard near Shandon in San Luis Obispo County and Soloman Hills south of Santa Maria. The facility is not open to the public and it is home to a number of world class wineries in the county: Jaffurs Wine Cellars (805 962-7003; www.jaffurswine.com), Lane Tanner Winery (805 929-1826; Lane also has a web newsletter), McKeon-Phillips Winery (805 688-6821), Morovino (805 682 9830; www.silcom.com/~morovino) and Whitcraft Winery (805 965-0956). (Jaffurs, Lane Tanner and Whitcraft wines are tasted at 2531 Grand Avenue south of Los Olivos. 11-6 daily. (805) 688-4409; www.sbwines.com. McKeon-Phillips wines are tasted at 1539 Mission Drive in Solvang. 9-5:30 daily. (805) 686-9699. Morovino wines are tasted at 1227 State Street in Santa Barbara. 10-8 Sunday through Thursday and 10-10 Friday and Saturday. (805) 568-0010.) Barnwood Vineyards which is not open to the public is located an hour east of Santa Maria in the serene moonscape of the Cuyama Valley. The vineyard is located at 4520 Highway 33 in Ventucopa. To visit, you would take Highway 166 east of Santa Maria, a daylight headlights required highway or Highway 33 north from Ojai. The wines, however, can be tasted Laetitia Vineyard & Winery at 453 Deutz Drive, off of US 101 south of Arroyo Grande. (Laetitia is owned by Barnwood.) 11-6 daily. (805) 481-1772. * * * The two out-of-county wineries which qualify for membership in the Santa Barbara County Vintners' Association are Brophy Clark Cellars with a Nipomo address (805-929-4830; coastwines@utech.net) and Meridian Vineyards with the winery located on Highway 46, seven miles east of Paso Robles and Highway 101. (805) 237-6000. The winery's second tasting room is the Meridian Wine Market which is located at 505 Paseo Nuevo in Santa Barbara. Brophy Clark wines are produced at Laetitia in Arroyo Grande where John Clark is the winemaker. They can be tasted at 2905 Grand Avenue in Los Olivos. * * *
The vineyards off of Clark Avenue include Soloman Hills, Santa Maria Hills and Le Bon Climat. Travelling up Foxen Canyon Road, the two estate vineyards of Foxen (on the left side of the road) are Ma Mere and Tinaquaic, the original Chumash Indian name for the rancho. Ma Mere, named for Dick Dore's mother, is a small half-acre across from Foxen Canyon Road from the winery. Tinaquaic is a 12 acre vineyard on the left, up on the hill, as you pass Foxen Creenk Ranch on your journey toward Foxen. Further up on Foxen Canyon -- about two miles up from Foxen -- is the 500 acre Riverbench Vineyard, a property originally planted by Paragon Vineyards which is located in the Edna Valley and now owned by Beringer Wine Estates. Then there is Goodchild Vineyard, and Lewellen and Lucas on the left. North of Foxen Canyon Road are a number of vineyards of great stature. Rancho Sisquoc, owned by the Flood Family of San Francisco, is one of the oldest producing vineyards in Santa Barbara County. The Byron estate vineyards are part of the old Tepusquet Vineyards developed by Louis Lucas and also now inlude the famous Nielsen Vineyard, the oldest vineyard in Santa Barbara County (which was planted by the late Uriel Nielsen in 1964). The Cambria Winery vineyards, totalling 1450 acres, also include some of the old Tepusquet property. The other vineyards are named Julia's Vineyard, Katherine's Vineyard and the new River Bluff Vineyard on the left side of the road across from Bien Nacido Vineyard. Out Santa Maria Mesa Road about a dozen miles east of Santa Maria is the world famous 826 acre Bien Nacido Vineyard. The Miller Family who owns the vineyard started planting grapes there in 1974 on the advice of Professor Vincent Petrucci of Fresno State. After high quality wines began to emerge from the vineyard from winemakers likeTony Austin, major northern California wineries like Mondavi, Beringer and Kendall-Jackson started by neighboring properties in the Santa Maria Valley. Neighboring Bien Nacido is North Canyon Vineyard, a new vineyard property owned and planted by Beringer Wine Estates. Another vineyard of note nearby is Rancho Viñedo Vineyard. In the vicinity of Cottonwood Canyon Vineyard & Winery is Marcella's and the world famous Sierra Madre Vineyard (both owned by Fess parker), Gold Coast which serves as the fruit source for Costa de Oro wines made out at the Au Bon Climat/Qupé winery, Garey and Dierberg-Crown. FINALLY . . . Phantom winemaking in Santa Barbara County? It seems like they operate out of the tailgate of a station wagon. (If you are a BATF, Treasury, or ABC dude reading this-they don't really!) Kahn Wines are intriguing, inviting wines with unusual names and labels-to wit, Cab Frank, the winery's tribute to Frank Sinatra (December 12, 1915-May 14, 1998 "It was Sinatra's world, we just lived in it"), and Avelina Mezzanotte, an Italian-inspired red blend, with a very Santa Barbara-inspired label! (805) 730-2453. www.kahnwines.com. Check them out!
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WHERE TO EAT IN WINE COUNTRY In and around the city of Santa Ynez four restaurants deserve your attention and patronage. I especially like the Longhorn Coffee Shop which I have gone to for years, and Grappolo, next door, for senational Italian food. Two relative newcomers are The Vineyard House and Santa Ynez Feed & Grill. Santa Barbarans who remember Cold Spring Tavern when Lars and Jim owned it will want to try Jim Sobel's Vineyard House. And those who have fond memories of Norbert's will want to try the new Santa Ynez Feed & Grill where Norbert is the chef.
Solvang is home to Brothers Restaurant, a truely world-class eatery at 409 First Street in the Storybook Inn. (805) 688-9934. A must stop in Solvang if you like Mexican food is Taco Loco in the Nielsen's Center, 606 Alamo Pintado, Suite #5. (805) 686-1901. Between Solvang and Los Olivos, you'll happen upon the village of Ballard. There, in the Ballard Inn is Cafe Chardonnay, a restaurant of great quality and ambiance. The Inn and restaurant are located at 2436 Baseline Avenue. (805) 688-7770. The old Ballard Store Restaurant, sadly, has recently closed its doors after 30 years of being in business there. Los Olivos, home to many winery tasting rooms, a town where cell phone reception is so bad we have to wonder what people do in the local restaurants, also has five terrific eating establishments worth noting. Mattei's Tavern is located at Highway 154 and Grand Avenue. (805) 688-4820. Near the flag pole is the highly regarded Los Olivos Cafe at 2879 Grand Avenue. (805) 688-7265. Across the street is the Vintage Room in Fess Parker's Wine Country Inn at 2860 Grand. (805) 688-7788. Down from the flag pole at 2375 Alamo Pintado Avenue is Massimi. Old timers will no doubt remember when the restaurant was located over in Solvang. (805) 693-1941. Right near the flag pole at 2900 Grand is Panino, a great place for sandwiches made on the spot, with umbrullas for outside dining. (805) 688-9304. West of Solvang in the city of Buellton, two favorites come to mind. There's the Hitching Post II at 406 East Highway 246 (805) 688-0676, and Ellen's Danish Pancake House at 272 Avenue of the Flags (805) 688-5312. Heading up toward Santa Maria, the towns of Los Alamos, Casmalia and Guadalupe have a number of intriguing eateries, in both ambiance and food quality. Three faves in Los Alamos are Ghostriders Tavern, at 550 Bell Street (805) 344-2111, Cafe Quackenbush at 458 Bell Street, (805) 344-5181, and Charlie's at 185 Bell Street on the west side of town (805) 344-4404. In Casmalia, 12 miles south west of Santa Maria is the original Hitching Post located at 3325 Point Sal Road-remote, but well worth the drive. The number is (805) 937-6151. www.hitchingpost1.com Twelve miles further up Highway 1, in the city ofGuadalupe, is the Far Western Tavern at 9th and Guadalupe Streets. (805) 343-2211. In Santa Maria (really in new Orcutt), Chef Rick's Ultimately Fine Foods at 4869 South Bradley Road, where Bradley intersects Clark Avenue is a must stop for lovers of great food. (805) 937-9512. Also in Santa Maria is the restaurant in the classic Santa Maria Inn at 801 South Broadway, downtown. (805) 928-7777. A great spot for a hearty and delicious lunch in Santa Maria is The Office at 2712 Santa Maria Way. (805) 922-2200. GREAT BEGINNINGS! For delicious breakfasts, I would highly recommend the Longhorn in Santa Ynez, Ellen's Danish Pancake House in Buellton, Cafe Quackenbush and Charlie's (on Sunday) in Los Alamos, and the Far Western Tavern in Guadalupe. If you plan on eating breakfast in Santa Barbara before coming to wine country, two long time favorites are the Cajun Kitchen and the Paradise Cafe. The Cajun Kitchen has four locations: 420 South Fairview in Goleta (805) 683-8864, 1924A De La Vina Street (the original-near mission Street) (805) 687-2062, 901 Chapala Street downtown (805) 965-1004 and 865 Linden Avenue in Carpinteria (805) 684-6010. Try the wonderful chili verde at the De La Vina Street restaurant on Saturday mornings, but get there early before they run out! The other long time fave is the Paradise Cafe which opens at for Sunday brunch at 9 a.m. Great food, ambience, food and very Santa Barbara! 702 Anacapa Street downtown. (805) 962-4416. |
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WHERE TO STAY IN WINE COUNTRY Not exactly in wine country, but a special note on where to stay, when there can be no compromise on excellence -- We are talking about the Four Seasons Resort Santa Barbara, also known by locals as the Four Seasons Biltmore, or by real oldtimers as the Santa Barbara Biltmore. Once a favored retreat for golden-era movie stars and royalty, now, an oceanfront hideaway in the heart of "America's Riviera," the Four Seasons marries the glory of historic California with legendary service for an experience unparalleled on the west coast. Amenities and services include: multilingual concierge staff, 24-hour room service, twice-daily housekeeping service, terry-cloth bathrobes, complimentary newspapers including the Los Angeles Times and USA Today, VCR in every room, in-room safes, three private tennis courts, four restaurants and two lounges for oceanside dining. They are located at 1260 Channel Drive, Santa Barbara, California 93108. (805) 969-2261. www.fourseasons.com. Near Santa Ynez, the Meadowlark Inn at 2644 Mission Drive (Highway 246) is now owned by Brigitte Guehr (of Brigitte's fame in Santa Barbara). She is turning this motel into a wine country getaway. (805) 688-4631. In or around Solvang, we recommend two bed and breakfasts and the great Alisal guest ranch on Alisal Road on the south end of town. The Storybook Inn at 409 First Street. (805) 688-1703. The Chimney Sweep Inn at 1564 Copenhagen Drive. (805) 688-2111. The Alisal at 1054 Alisal Road. (805) 688-6411. In Buellton, there's the upscale Rancho Santa Barbara Marriott at 555 Mc Murry Road. (805) 688-1000. There in Buellton, you will also find a number of very good, reasonably priced motels too! In the town of Los Olivos, the old Grand Hotel is now Fess Parker's Wine Country Inn. It is located downtown near the flagpole at 2860 Grand Avenue. (805) 688-7788. Between Solvang and Los Olivos in the village of Ballard is the Ballard Inn, located at 2436 Baseline Avenue. (805) 688-7770. The inn also has Cafe Chardonnay. In the heart of the new emerging center of Santa Barbara County's wine country in Los Alamos, there is the historic Union Hotel and Victorian Mansion at 362 Bell Street (805) 344-2744 and two nicely restored motels -- the Skyview Motel up on the hill on the east side of town at 9150 Highway 101 (805) 344-3770, and the Alamo Motel at 425 Bell Street (805) 344-2852. In Santa Maria there is the historic Santa Maria Inn, once an important stopover for the Hearst entourage, on their way to the Castle. It's located downtown at 801 South Broadway. (805) 928-7777. |
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WHERE TO PICNIC Santa Barbara County wineries offering picnic areas we especially like are:
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TOURING - LEAVE THE DRIVING TO THE PROFESSIONALS To tour our wine country without the worry of driving we recommend the following:
If you are interested in seeing an older version of this "Grand Tour," click here! Independent wine columnist Bob Senn has written "Grapevine" for the Santa Barbara Independent since 1986. He owns the Wine & Spirits Emporium and lives in the Los Alamos Valley. *The on-line version is unabridged and parts have been altered by the author for inclusion on this website. |
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