Wining and Dining
at The Paradise Cafe
by Bernard Roth
From the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium
Newsletter 1.4
September 20, 1996
If you happen to be in Santa Barbara and want unfussy, well-prepared food and good wine value, stop into The Paradise for lunch or dinner. The Paradise offers grilled meat and seafood, burgers and other sandwiches, salads and a fine wine list. I especially recommend the black bean soup, lamb chops and fresh grilled fish of the day.
The Paradise features Santa Barbara County wines. For me, the highlights of their wine list can be found among the Cellar Selections, generally at below retail prices! (They change their wine list monthly, so the wines mentioned might not all still be available.) Consider:
Au Bon Climat Benedict Reserve Pinot Noir 1988, Santa Barbara ($32). Jim Clendenen, Pinot Noir. 'nuff said.On the main wine list you'll also find some fabulous wines at reasonable prices. Chardonnays by Au Bon Climat, Byron, Qupe. Sauvignon Blanc by Frog's Leap, Matanzas Creek, Spottswoode. Firestone Riesling, Makor Pinot Blanc, Qupe Viognier. Rosenblum Zinfandel! Qupe Syrah Bien Nacido Reserve!! Bonny Doon Pink Wine. Stephen Ross Pinot Noir, drinking beautifully.Justin "Isoceles Reserve" 1992, Paso Robles ($32). A red Meritage with exquisite balance. No longer found in retail shops, try it while you have the opportunity. My favorite Bordeaux style wine between Malibu and Monterey.
Guigal Cote Rotie "Brune et Blonde" 1985, Rhone ($42). 1985 was a top vintage in Cote Rotie and Guigal is its best producer. The wine first presents itself with closed-in bouquet and a soft, silky texture with supple flavors. Over the course of an hour, the wine opens up to reveal smoke, bacon, wet loam and leather on the nose. The tannins become assertive exposing layers of complexity. The syrah fruit shows its age supressing the jammy blackberry and pepper of its youth. With current vintages of this wine just $10 lower retail, this is a good buy. Five stars from Broadbent.
Guigal Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1985, Rhone ($40). Though not a Rayas, Guigal is consistently excellent. Again, only a small markup over retail gets you 10 years of bottle age.
Ch. Leoville Las Cases 1985, St. Julien ($65). This chateau produces some of Bordeaux's best wines year in and year out. 1985 was an excellent vintage and this wine is ready to quaff. Parker rates it a 92, Broadbent 5 stars.
Prunotto Barolo 1985, Piemonte ($34). One of the greatest vintages this century in Italy's Piedmont. The wine has a classic Barolo nose. The tannins are still substantial without overwhelming the fruit. An hour after uncorking, the wine continued to evolve greater complexity. A mouthfully-good wine for robust foods.
Gaja Barbaresco 1983, Piemonte ($42). 1983 was not an easy vintage in Piedmont. But Angelo Gaja is the great master of Barbaresco. You may find his recent vintages for $80 or more in retail shops. Or you could try this with dinner for half that.
Monte Vertine "Il Sodaccio" 1985, Tuscany ($30). One of the "Super Tuscans". 100% Sangioveto (a Sangiovese clone). Great vintage, great producer, great price. How can this still be available?
But the biggest value of all is a wine you may never have heard of, Domaine Terres Blanches. From the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Les Baux appellation in the south of France, this is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mouvedre, Grenache, Cinsault and who knows what else. With nicely balanced fruit and tannins, this wine would compliment a tuna steak, burger or Caesar salad. The current vintage is 1992. Only $20 ($10 a half bottle), the wine also happens to be made from grapes grown using sustainable, organic farming methods. Are you paying attention, California growers?!
EDITOR'S NOTE: A real local's place, the Paradise Cafe is located in Santa Barbara, a block off of the main drag at 702 Anacapa Street. Open daily 11 to 11 and Sunday 9 to 11. A full bar with a terrific selection of beer too. Major credit cards. (805) 962-4416.