spirits lexicon



Alambic brandy is a type of brandy which is hand-distilled in a small potstill which is called an alambic still. (Both the words "alcohol" and "alambic" are Arabic words, pre-Moslem, of course. The still was probably invented by the ancient alchemists who were on their quest for "making gold.") Alambic brandies, small batch brandies, are usually regarded as the potentially finest brandies made. Alambic brandies are distinguished from "just" brandies, which may be produced in larger commercial stills. The brandies of Germain-Robin are all alambic brandies. Many are made from the Columbard grape which was the standard of Cognac in the 19th Century. Germain-Robin brandies are also produced from other varietals such as pinot noir, gamay and sauvignon blanc.

Cognac. True Cognac (with a capital "C") must be made in Cognac; it is a brandy and it must be double-distilled in a potstill heated by a naked flame. The grape used: Ugni Blanc. Most markets including the US allow cognac to go on sale when it is two years old, according to Gordon Brown in the "Handbook of Fine Brandies." Legal minimum ages: VS/Three Star: 2 years VSOP (Very Special Old Pale): 4 years Napoleon: 6 years XO/extra: 6 years (can go to 20) Vielle Reserve & Vieux: 6 years (generally go from 7-40 years)

Eau de vie (French for "water of life") are fruit wines which are distilled and bottled, generally with no oak barrel ageing, and are made in a similar fashion as grappa. Fruits which seem to lend themselves to magnificent distillation include pear, raspberry, and plum. Like grappas, these eaux de vies are clear, resembling gin or vodka, but are made from pure, usually whole fruit. They are definitely not flavored--certainly not the ones we feature at the Los Olivos Wine & Spirits Emporium! Incidentally, a grape eau de vie is a grappa or marc.

Grappa (or marc as it is known in France) is what's left over from the winemaking and then distilled. Basically, you take the seeds, skins, pomace, add water and sugar, ferment and then distill. These distillations are never bottle-aged or put into barrels. They go from still to glass, for the most part. By and large, most Italian grappas are a bad practical joke which Italy is playing on the United States and the rest of the world. Most Italian grappas are to the "art" of distilling what Hamburger Helper is to cooking!

Ue (pronounced "ooh a [long a]): Is an obscure term for a "super grappa" that started cropping up in the 1980s. Instead of using "what's left over" as you find in most of those traditional Italian grappas, producers made wine from whole berries and then distilled it. If well made, a beverage of definite superior quality. Your Bonny Doon and Mosby grappas are really ue's because of the high proportion of juice that's used and fermented. Since ue is not a standard of identity for labeling recognized by the BATF (Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms), it cannot be used on a label, so domestically produced ue's have to be labeled grappas. Sad but true.

Schnapps. Fine German schnapps are the same in concept as eau de vie. Eau de vie is not an accepted BATF standard of identity, so those products are labeled brandy, stupidly, in the United States. Schnapps does appear on US made beverages, but has no relationship or bearing to true European schnapps, so sadly, those horrid domestically produced schnapps are artificially flavored industrial quality grain alcohol. According to Alexis Lichine's Encyclopedia, schnapps are "a strong, dry spirit," and can include gin. Remember domestic schnapps is sweet, and artificially flavored, the beverage of the gutter-snipe to use a term from George Bernard Shaw. The term should not be allowed in this country any more than some of those "grandfathered" place-name terms like chablis, burgundy or champagne be allowed. (Remember, on a bottle of US made wine, "chablis" on the label is synonymous with cheap white wine; "burgundy" is synonymous with cheap red wine.)

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