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I've only had a couple of Le Pavillons, courtesy of Howard&Rhoda, so
don't have a wealth of background to speak on these wines. Nonetheless,
being a LosAlamos guy, I will speak with the usual air of authority even
if I know nothing about the subject!! It's the LosAlamos way. I would probably
label Hermitage as my favorite of the Northern Rhones, although Cote- Rotie
is right up there. Hermitage, as a generalization, seems to me to have
more Syrah fruit and only a slight degree of that roasted/espresso/smokey
character that makes C-R so distinctive. Alas, with much fewer players
in the field than C-R, one doesn't see quite such a broad range in styles
and quality as one sees in C-R. The Hermitages strike me as the most
Calif-style of the Rhone wines because of their (again, speaking in generalities)
strong Syrah fruit. Howard usually takes umbrage when I label a French
wine as Calif in style. I don't mean to imply that Calif-style is the ne
plus ultra when it comes to making wine. Just that Calif wines are typically
much more fruit-driven and richer and lusher (again, in general terms).
That's exactly what RP claims Calif should be doing w/ their more lenient
climate. It's always struck me a bit ironic that the French wines
that receive the most raves and high scores are in those yrs that permit
a more Calif- style of wine with more lush fruit & richness than they
receive in a rain-besotted vintage. Go figure. These Le Pavillons
were an impressive set of wines. I certainly don't see them as 20 yr wines
like some of the Chaves or LaChapelles. But they all struck me as very
balanced wines, very well-made. Though the oak was there, especially in
the younger ones ('96&'97), it seemed very well integrated and not
blatent/obtrusive like in can often be in Calif Syrah. For the older ones
(using the weak '93-'94 vintages as sort of a dividing line), I preferred
slightly the '90 for its greater intensity of fruit. The '89 was all about
finesse and elegance and complexity, qualities that a guy who does
epee has not learned to appreciate, where power and brute-force is where
it's at. For the younger ones, it was pretty much a toss-up of the '95
and the '97. I really loved the fresh cracked black pepper character &
complexity in the '9It reminded me much of the EdmundsStJohn, the failla-jordan,
and the Lagier-Meredith Syrahs in character (I know... it sacrelidge to
mention those wines in the same breath as Le Pavillon!!). But I equally
loved the '97 as well for its intense fruit and Calif style, reminding
me of the Alban, the Tensley, the Linne Calodo/BoneRock, and the Garettson/Alban
in style. Both of them are going to be exceptional wines down the road
a bit, I think. The question that many of us had was was there a change
of style in the wines over the yrs. Not having tasted the older ones when
they were young, it was hard for me to say. I sort of sensed a more
Calif/international style in the '96 & '97 vintages, but that may only
be because of the vintage condition and not a concious stylistic change.
And, of course, Rhoda's contribution of cheeses & pates and well-done
(in the sense of well-prepared) roast beef and horseradish mayo cannot
be overlooked. All in all, a terific night of pretty special wines
and exceptional company.
TomHill
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