||And the usual profundities from the Bloody Pulpit:
Jaffurs Viogniers: I've followed Craig Jaffurs Viogniers from the very
start; when we (Craig, Larry Archibald, myself) sat outside on Bob Senn's
porch on a chill winter morning and he poured us a barrel sample of his
first Viognier (rather yeasty/hard/lean). I've always liked his Viogniers
for their different style from most other Calif Viogniers: a bit more Condrieu-like
in that they're less DollyParton-like, leaner/tarter more acid and structure
in character. I think they age a bit better than most as well. The '97
and '98 were two totally different Viogniers in style. The '97 seemed more
over-the-top than I recall it, whilst the '98 was more like the Jaffurs
style I know. Both wines are doing mighty fine and are absolutely delicious
Garretson Wines: I've followed MatGarretson's wines from the very start.
This threesome was mightly impressive. The Frahlich was a bit too sweet
and cloying (some have been fermenting in the btl) and too tiresome on
the palate; but the other two were dynamite wines. The Roussanne, weird
as it may be, was maybe the best Roussanne I've yet had from Calif. Almost
a Viognier style rendition of that grape.
Do Viogniers Age??: Sorta depends upon what you want. If it's Viognier
and you insist that it MUST have that heady perfume of young Viognier;
then the answer is, of course, no. But if you're a bit more open-minded
and allow as much that Viognier can develop some interesting things with
age, then the answer is yes.... sometimes. The aging curve for Viognier
seems rather erratic to me; I find as many misses as hits. I was expecting
the Phelps, a lean/ tight almost eviscerated wine in it youth to be totally
gone. This one was in fine shape. I expected the TerreRouge, a fat/porky/DollyParton
Viognier in its youth to be totally gone. It was holding on just fine.
I thought the Qupe, a fairly tight/tart wine in its youth to be fine. It
seemed on its last legs. Go figure.
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